As the New York Fashion Week Fall 2017 collections begin to wind down it seems that designers are reinterpreting luxury. This season the tone is more understated, with more focus on textures and fabrics. Opulence and extravagance are giving way to simpler, cleaner looks allowing quality, tailoring and pure sartorial skill to shine through.
New York Fashion Week Fall 2017 Collections: Polish, Sophistication & Extreme Opulence
Everything’s better with a touch of mink trim, just ask Zang Toi. The designer stayed true to his polished classic signature for Fall 2017, crafting a sophisticated and elegant collection in black, navy, and ivory. Supple shearling vests and leather pants were worn as if they were light as air. Conservative men’s wear suiting, crisp white blouses, and pearl chokers added to the elegance. But it was black and white mink trim that touched everything from lapels to sleeves that put this collection over the top with richness. Who doesn’t love the drama of a mink-trimmed great coat?
Shearling was the focus for Stuart Vevers’ fall 2017 collection for Coach 1941. He pushed the envelope with deconstructed looks, unexpected details and embroideries of florals or cartoon characters. Blanketstyle shearling jackets and coats looked like traditional, hand crafted western wear. Cowhide and leather varsity jackets over floral prairie dresses actually felt quite modern. A brown two toned, long haired shearling top coat was rich with imagination. Overall, the collection felt a bit kitschy but broken down into separates, there were some solid collectables.
The Fall 2017 RTW collection from Tory Burch was a major departure from her signature of school girl prep moving towards soccer mom attire. This collection felt a bit more grown up, more Grande dame. Monogramed TB’s instead of her bold, gold double T’s, floral silk dresses, and lots of pants played into this more mature feel. The winter white monochromatic looks that opened the show were entrance makers for sure. A white sheepskin car coat with patent leather trim and gold buttons was exceptional. Later in the show, Burch created a plaid dress with coordinating shearling topper. The textural multi-colored shearling coat mimicked the pattern of the dress and bag it was shown with…brilliant!!
68 glorious options came from Dennis Basso in his fall 2017 RTW collection. What did he have to say for himself? “This is my 34th year and I feel like I just started!” Here’s to wishing him 34 more years too! When it comes to uber-luxe, nobody does it better than Dennis. But sometimes, in search of the opulence, his designs can be overwrought. Not so this season. Across his daywear, his evening wear and even his furs, this collection was cleaner, simpler and still conveyed glamour and exclusivity. In part, this is due to his masterful handling of the most precious of furs including ermine, sable, lynx and Russian Broadtail.
Yowza! Brandon Maxwell’s fall 2017 RTW was hot, hot, HOT! Black leather mini dresses, a ball gown skirt made from pony hair, and plush fox coats and trims, what was there NOT to LOVE? Oh, let’s not forget the emerald strapless sheath dress with matching fox coat….divine! Swarovski crystals and sleek leathers rounded out this parade of sexy, powerful styles. Now, if you’re a girl who likes to dress down and fade into the background, then Maxwell is not your guy. For all you other glam-o-zons…..game on!
J. Mendel’s fall 2017 RTW was the kind of fashion that belongs in a museum. The finest fabrics and the most intricate details didn’t go unnoticed with plissé ballerina dresses, ruffled column style dresses embellished with sequins, and just the right touch of fur to finish them off. Gilles Mendel’s Parisian roots were undeniable with soft, pretty, ladylike looks paired with innovative fur designs that were edgy and modern. A patchwork fox hooded parka was pure drama and a rich brown tailored Russian broadtail coat with fox collar was sartorial elegance.