London, it seems so far, is focused on luxe ladylike looks for Spring/Summer 2017, playing to a more dressed-up attitude than we’ve seen in past seasons. Are we heading into a new era of dressing that is moving away (albeit slightly) from the more casual approach?
For Peter Pilotto spring came in the form of linen and lace, taffeta and denim with pretty prints of palm trees and butterflies..and a few cartoonish graphics thrown in for fun. There were bows and flounces that added to the feminine allure. Macramé and gold embroidery detail upped the luxe quotient. And with dresses, gowns, halter tops, bags and embroidered short-sleeved lace t-shirts there were plenty of separates sure to make their way into spring wardrobes
Spring was busting out all over in the Paul Smith SS 2017 show with an array of floral prints ranging from the delicate to the bold. Gingham, definitely an emerging trend, was on the menu here too. His focus this season seemed to be on volume with a range of big and boxy looks that may be considered modern, but were not at all flattering. His more tailored looks reminded us of the dandy that Paul Smith is.
With a palette heavy in olives, taupes and jewel tones it was tough to tell whether Mulberry was presenting SS 2017 or was on the “See now, Buy now” bandwagon. Buttery soft leathers and shimmery metallic furthered the confusion. And the patterns, whether in stripes, plaids or subtle floral prints were perfectly “seasonless”. Perhaps that is part of the genius here. Ruffles and flounces evoked a 1940’s romanticism. Still, there were sharply tailored looks that were modern and sexy. From prim to playful, the Mulberry client has plenty to consider here.
Temperley went a bit tropical with their SS 2017 collection. Lots of easy, flowing shapes, diaphanous fabrics and lightweight cottons lent airiness and movement. The sherbet colors and artful print motifs had us yearning for the lazy, hazy days of summer. These were easy clothes with a boho chic edge for the free spirit in all of us. Temperley understands the importance of evening to their customers, too, and for this they delivered shimmering looks in jumpsuits and dresses and a show-stopping intricate macramé gown.
With delicate lace and floral brocades, tiers of ruffles and black velvet laces, high necks and long hemlines, Erdem Moralioglu delivered a romantic collection for SS 2017. Erdem presented looks that seemed to have stepped right out of an English garden party of the early 1900’s updated with his personal stamp. The effect was soft and pretty and ultra-feminine. This spring if the invitation says “garden party attire” Erdem is your best bet.
Belstaff is all about luxury. Buttery leathers and rich fabrics are beautifully tailored to create trademark looks that are moto-inspired and a touch masculine. But for SS 2017 they complemented the lightweight outerwear with pretty cotton wrap dresses, floral printed jumpsuits and a pleated sheer black skirt that delivered just the right ladylike notes. This might be the label of choice for tough girl chic, but it offers the refinement and sophistication that works equally well in society circles.
Roksanda Ilincic does not design clothes for the faint-at-heart. She uses color and shape to create drama and tell a story about her vision for the season. For SS 2017 her palette included rich coppers, crisp whites, bright yellows and shimmering golds, a departure from the softer hues we’ve seen in other collections. Satins and cottons took the place of the lace and organza that have been de rigueur for the season. Layering and volume were her answer to effortless chic. Ms. Ilinic has chosen her own unique path for SS 2017 and her clients should have the confidence to travel with her.