Part 2: Milan Menswear Fall 2017 Collection Reviews
Okay, we admit it. We are not full on board with the more casual approach to men’s tailored clothing that is dominating these Menswear fall 2017 collections. We get that designers are responding to client preferences, but the message these collections are sending may be giving just a bit too much permission for dressing down. And, it seems we’re not alone. Over lunch with Cary Fetman, stylist for ABC’s “The Bachelor” he cautioned that “we are heading to a place where sloppiness is being accepted and that’s not okay.” We like to see guys in the beautifully tailored and structured men’s suits that give them that look of sophistication and power. And given the dressier leanings of women’s wear for the past few seasons, don’t we deserve to have the guys on our arms looking a little classier?
Menswear Fall 2017 Collections Continued
Fortunately, we are still seeing some of those clean, classic tailored looks. We even appreciate some of the fresh designer touches that are putting a more modern twist on the classics (though the bustier pant at Daks may have pushed things a bit too far.) . One of our favorite twists? Versace’s fitted suits with slightly flared trousers that featured little slashes at the bottom. Handled differently, the look might have been too redolent of a track pant, but here it managed to be crisp and fresh. But slouchy pants and loose-fitting jackets just aren’t our idea of a “suit”.
That being said, we do appreciate that designers are upping the luxury quotient for more casual sportswear and ath-leisure looks for fall 2017 menswear. Beautiful fabrics and tailoring have helped women to embrace this approach to casual dressing, giving it more polish and style. Now the guys will have the same opportunity. With so many great new luxurious sportswear and athletic looks there are simply no more excuses for wearing that favorite old sweatshirt with the holes when we go to lunch together. The ultimate sporty looks came from Thom Browne for Moncler Gamme Bleu. If you overlooked the rope theme that dominated his collection there were some examples of extraordinary tailoring on padded suits and long jackets.
It is interesting to note that in these uncertain times so many designers are looking back to the 70’s for inspiration. Prada’s departure from their trademark sleek, sophisticated styles was well placed in this collection of textured looks with leather and fur details and patch pockets that evoked the era. There was a sense of comfort in the familiarity and simplicity of these looks.
Versace’s response to the turbulence of late was a retreat from their trademark glitz and glam to the safety of blanket coats, lean, simple suits and shearlings. These were clothes that the average guy could easily understand.
Statement outerwear continues to dominate with large, enveloping blanket coats and robe coats, oversized parkas and plenty of big puffer coats. Plush shearling was worked into oversized collars, dramatic trims and great new silhouettes. And whether as accent, accessory or full garment designers played with fur’s creative possibilities.