Part 1: Milan Menswear Fall 2017 Collection Reviews
Milan’s Menswear Fall 2017 Runway Roundup
What’s defining menswear fall 2017 collections? The theme is definitely more casual as designers re-imagine the traditional suit and an athletic vibe continues to take over. Certainly there are plenty of options for the classicist in the fall 2017 menswear collections as some designers delivered polished refinement with crisp, tailored looks.
Others experimented with proportions to bring a fresh, modern approach to tailored dressing. But the largest movement for menswear fall 2017 collections, perhaps in response to a more youthful culture that demands easy, effortless style, was a blurring of the lines of tailored and athletic aesthetics. Tailored jackets came in many forms from crisp 2 button looks and narrow 3-button options to soft shouldered 8-button silhouettes. These were paired with roomy, wide-legged or cropped pants for a cool, easy confidence. It all begged the question: Was this a dressing down of tailored or a dressing up of leisure wear?
Urban influences were reflected across more than a few collections in powerful silhouettes, volume and layering that suggested a sense of strength and protection. The 70’s and 80’s made their mark again with subtle references and style elements adding to the vocabulary of the season.
Hoodies seemed to come into their own this season as a bonafide fashion staple that can work equally well for streetwear styling or more sophisticated looks. Designers are having fun with the silhouette, providing their own twists with unexpected patterns and fabrics.
The use of rich, textural fabrics is another key trend for the season with cozy, chunky knits, quilted silks and leathers, velvets, tweeds and fuzzy alpaca adding to the luxury message. Of course there were plenty of soft cashmeres and felted woolens too. Adding to their creative expression, designers turned to metallics, jacquards,embroideries, appliqués, patchwork and intarsia fur. Whether real, as in most collections, or faux, fur made a bold statement for fall 2017 menswear as trims, accessories and outerwear in the vast majority of collections.
Will these trends continue as we finish Milan and head to Paris? And what will these trends tell us about the upcoming fall/winter RTW collections?