Thom Browne is notorious for staging outrageously absurd shows and, with men dressed as circling sharks and life-sized birds, his 2017 Spring RTW collection was quintessential Browne. After the shock value wore off and with your senses still tingling, what you have left is fashion that demonstrates bold creativity and trademark opulence. Browne showed his prowess with embroideries, jacquards, feathers and rich fabrics. He, too, like Balenciaga, juxtaposed exaggerated, boxy suitings against slim-fit suits. It was a collection full of fashion imitating Magritte type art. Browne’s bright green mink blazer with intarsia piping was one example of exaggerated reality that leaves your senses tantalized.
There was a certain break dance/eighties vibe steaming off the runway at Off-White’s 2017 RTW show. Designer Virgil Abloh is a relative newcomer to the fashion week scene which gives him flexibility to be creative without being typecast. Hoodies, baggie pants, and oversized sweaters with lobster insignia immediately made the B52’s ring in our ears. Organza shirts managed to be masculine and sexy – some with photo prints…something we also saw with Raf Simon’s Mapplethorpe screen prints this season. A neon green tee peeked out under a black trench with blush shearling collar. Somebody call the Biebs ‘cuz he’s gonna love it.
Sedate colors of olive and brown were given an infusion of energy with the addition of goldenrod, teal and magenta. The Hermes spring RTW collection was full of perfect, classic pieces that still look modern and fresh. Showcasing sumptuous fabrics like leather and silk knits, it was a collection that begged to be touched. Designer Véronique Nichanian crafted leather cardigans that would give Mr. Rogers a heart attack and the leather pants that would shame even Mic Jagger in their fit and form. We love it when classics are turned into modern day sex symbols.
Paul Smith’s spring RTW collection for ’17 reminds us of what can be so fun and thrilling about fashion. Using his typical men’s wear silhouettes, Smith sets forth a frenzy of fun with rainbow colors, patterns and trims. While the thought of wearing an all yellow suit can seem like Big Bird gone wrong, Smith makes it totally understandable and fun using a screen tee and red sneakers. This stuff is totally chill.
Imagine that sweet fictitious character Paddington Bear in his rain gear and fisherman’s hat and you have the boyish charm found in the Acne Studio’s spring RTW collection for men in ’17. Mostly a showing of outerwear, Jonny Johansson, creative director, said, “It’s very simple. It’s about the emptiness of the Swedish summer . . . I think it’s quite romantic in a way.” Basic layering pieces are perfect for taking you in and about the surf and sea including parka style jackets with hoods that were cropped or long and were made from shiny tech fabrics. A few knit short outfits softened the look and were nice underpinnings to the capes.