We have passed the mid-week mark and Paris is turning out to be a very welcome breath of fresh air for this Spring-Summer 2015 collection cycle. Whereas the overall message seems more about easy investment pieces and relaxed style, the addition of a few experimental looks have manifested an avant-garde spirit.
Thinking outside of the box doesn’t have to be outrageous. Reshuffling established archetypes and proportions offers plenty of room for creativity – as with looser geometric volumes, the re-conceptualization of eveningwear staples, even the reintroduction of historical coat shapes.
Prints have lost their mojo this season, though don’t think for a moment that everything is uniform. Within the various print concepts we are seeing at Paris Fashion Week Spring-Summer 2015, florals and abstracted painterly designs are favored. Then come the few unicorns (aka: the super cool photo print process) incorporated to give an extra editorial push. We see something promising in the ombré finish shown by Cacharel –this two-process idea works and can be easily adapted into menswear also.
Bold geometric garment shapes – some that read almost cartoony at times – began to turn heads in 2013. Today’s more mainstream, if not abstracted, versions seem to tackle mostly blousons with mouton sleeves and short trapeze skirts. The current examples are much easier to annex into any preexisting wardrobes which might signal an actual global trend for 2015 (let’s wait and see when The Gap or J. Crew will start offering their spin).
Simple soft coats are a must-have this season. They come in various levels of formality, while maintaining a relaxed feel that reads chic and fresh. We hope this influences some reversible shearling pieces in unconventional furs like Persian lamb or mink. We hope to see this hit the menswear wardrobe too.
We have said it before but pants and pant ensembles are making a major statement in Paris. On their own, or as ensembles or suits, pants are everywhere and looking sharp and stylish. Recently pants had lost some of their relevance as leggings dominated the fashion scene, but this tide seems to be turning. We’ll find out soon enough if these pants are a hit at retail for Spring-Summer 2015.
“Ladylike” looks are on the menu here and we like it! Prim and proper concepts that reference past decades and uncluttered experimental looks don’t offer the usual editorial jolt but they are very pretty and wearable. Even Jean Paul Gaultier delivered looks that might be considered “mainstream” featuring masterful tailoring and precise cuts.
More on Paris soon…