The Martin Grant fall RTW collection is simply pretty pieces for chic, easy dressing across all dayparts. Pixie pants paired with hounds tooth jackets or tunic tops, shirt dresses, leather skirts and shifts all had a polished look, perfect for the office or a lunch date. For cocktails there was a sexy black jumpsuit with plunging neckline or a breezy black off-the-shoulder dress. Classic evening looks included a pretty floral print halter gown, a sharply tailored camel pleated floor-length skirt with a halter top or a diaphanous black evening skirt and blouse. Outerwear was a bit bolder with an emerald green trench coat and a black and white tartan plaid wrap coat. This collection is full of wardrobe staples to keep you looking good for all the events in your day. It’s worth mentioning the shoes, created for Grant by Christian Louboutin. A thicker high heel with wide buckle strap and open toe, they are a must-have in every color.
Stop the presses….Paris RTW fashion week has hit a high-note of epic proportions. Hooray! Bring on next fall because the Sonia Rykiel collection, headed up by designer Julie de Libran, has everything you could want from street chic to girl-in-charge for drinks after work to weekend retreats. What makes all this so special? Fur-tastic features on pockets, shoes, and sleeves….. a tactile treasure trove of the best money can buy. De Libran chooses the prettiest blues seen to date- a smoky dark teal SAGA mink stroller with pockets managed to be girly cute and lady-like sophisticated at the same time. Taupe fox sleeves adorn a cropped jacket with two-toned Brittany blues. A slim black broadtail coat dress with dyed blue fox sleeves blurred the lines between RTW and outerwear. A gold tweed mini dress with midnight blue fox pockets and sleeves makes me giddy to think of the jealous stares. This collection was young and fresh and full of energy….fashion headline news!
The house of Hermès is rooted in luxury and this season, under the direction Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski for the women’s wear division, they stayed true to their DNA with butter soft leathers, double faced cashmeres, sumptuous shearlings and mink. An earth tone palette of chestnut, sand, bedrock and berry added to the calm, rich feel. Sleek lines with minimal details, long skirts and duster coats floated down the runway with perfectly sophisticated polish. But these were interrupted by big, boxy tops and bias cut gowns and skirts that, though they reflected strong tailoring, did not do much to flatter. A sleek black shearling coat with shoulder detail was pure Hermès. A hooded shearling with an angled hem had an uptown street edge. Mink was given an elegant herringbone treatment in a coat and sweater vest. Just remember, if you have to ask the price, you can’t afford it.
There was absolutely nothing subtle about the fall RTW collection presented by Hedi Slimane for Saint Laurent. Actually, it was in-your-face 1980’s disco-glam on steroids viewed through distorted glasses. Imagine the heyday of Studio 54 with the requisite drugs…and plenty of them. Sexy little cocktail dresses came with ruffles, bows, pouf skirts and off-the-shoulder looks. He showed them in leathers, beads, feathers and sequins, the more flash the better. Jumpsuits, a quintessential disco silhouette, came in glitters and leathers too. Wide belts cinched waists. He riffed on the pronounced shoulders of the 80s with an over-the-top shoulder treatment that looked ready to take flight. Done in bright blue or red fox they practically swallowed the models. At the end of the day there is sure to be a market for his cocktail dresses and frankly, it will be refreshing to have a little disco glitz and glam back for fall.
You know you’re looking at something special when you witness any Chanel collection. Karl Lagerfeld’s fall 2016 RTW presentation didn’t disappoint. It takes a certain gifted talent to turn out fashion that is in line with a brand’s well-established legacy and signature looks but still manages to look fresh and modern. Suits were classically cut with skirts that fell at or just below the knee. Ample use of tweed in all colors with touches of metallic thread anchored the Chanel aesthetic. Mr. Lagerfeld tweaked these with raw hems, unexpected pattern mixing, and the infusion of denim. Metallic skirts, sweaters with grommets and diaphanous white layered dresses offered options for the Chanel-girls-in-training. As always, the accessories played a key role. A single tied scarf, a bolo hat, and chunky pearls gave the pieces a youthfulness that will appeal to followers like Emma Watson and Natalie Portman. Underneath it all there were still enough of those elegant Chanel suits to keep his society ladies happy.