Fall 2017 Menswear Collections Trends & Treats
The schedule for the Paris Fall 2017 Menswear Collections seemed to be more packed than ever. With so many shows it’s no wonder we’re lagging behind. It takes time to take it all in, digest it and come to reasonable conclusions. With that said, it’s no secret that the dominant theme of this Paris Fall 2017 Menswear week is the reinvention of the suit. With the “casualization” of dress codes the tailored market has been struggling to reinvent itself to be more relevant to today’s men. But, alongside the coveted hoodies parkas and tracksuits – the casual clothing that men understand – there is no question that the suit has its place. It’s just a matter of figuring out just what that place is.
There are no shortages of answers across the collections here. As another day of shows marched down the runways designers continued to broaden the vocabulary of the suit with a play on proportions (ACNE, BERLUTI, THE KOOPLES, ETUDES) the mingling of streetwear references (BALMAIN, DIOR) and, at Emanuel Ungaro, even the introduction of the drawstring pant to add a modern and unexpected leisure twist to the traditionally tailored label.
Layering plays a big role for the season, with plenty of solid wardrobe staples that can be mixed and matched to allow the guys lots of opportunity to create their own unique style. There is a safety and comfort in layered dressing that comes from the flexibility of styling and the ability to hide the physical flaws. Let’s be honest, this is just plain good business sense too, as it encourages the guys to purchase multiple pieces.
The textural notes of the season have been fairly consistent across the European cities with the focus on rich, deep, soft textures that convey comfort and luxury. Chunky rib knits and quilted leathers lend a sculptural appeal, particularly when layered. Light plays off of velvet to heighten the visual drama. Emanuel Ungaro takes it up a notch with the rough hews of bouclé and boiled wool outerwear. And then there’s shearling, seemingly ubiquitous throughout these collections. We couldn’t be happier.
One collection among the Paris menswear shows so far deserves special recognition for its pure fashion artistry. With a focus on detail and luxury materials and a tight vision influenced by 1980’s rock ‘n roll and a streetwear sensibility Balmain went where no other menswear designer has gone this season. Gold filigree and richly artistic prints delivered unparalleled drama and glamour. Sleek crocodiles and innovative shearling adaptations managed to be rugged and opulent at the same time.
Still more Paris to come….