New York Fashion Week Spring-Summer 2015 has come to a close and the overriding theme of the collections was SAFE. A more formal mood emerged throughout these collections, albeit with some surprises, but the week failed to distinguish any key trends to set the season apart.
Historical references were present, with certain decades influencing designers more loudly than others. From 1960’s short Mod proportions to 1990’s stark fluidity and the polished glam look of the 1970’s, designers called on style nods of the past to present a broad range of looks with something to suit almost everyone.
Within this eclectic stylistic macadam, a few mini-trends stood-out more than others – or really reflected the current taste. Some looked and felt a little more European in sensibility, yet still maintained strong American sportswear flair. When black and white played with bolder cuts, the stylized look felt slightly more French. You can never go wrong with this combo; it is a foolproof classic.
New York still managed to provide directional creations that made editors take note. Many played with layering and unexpected garment juxtapositions. We really like the transparency and lightness of sheer fabrications but we’re lukewarm on this idea’s global influence.
Print-wise, the photo-print is no longer trending as vividly. While there are still examples, the favored print style looks painterly or geometric – consequently more traditional. That said, don’t expect boring looks; the results are loads of fun and most look super chic.
Unlike previous seasons, few specific animal patterns were favored here. Whereas actual skins like python shyly made the rounds, it was hard to discern the real stuff from printed and stamped leather versions. Leopard print, too, didn’t make that much of a roar in New York. Expect Milan to snap the whip.
One fun new direction that we hope comes through the other fashion weeks as a key trend is the introduction of exciting spring fur fashion. Furs morphed into super textiles via intricate intarsia treatments and colorful rinses. What really made these pieces special was their lightness and fluidity… jet set comfort and style at its best! And it all makes great sense! When spring hits the stores in most markets there are still several months of colder weather left.
Craftsmanship is really differentiating the designer pieces from mainstream creations. Embroideries, though not overwhelming, are returning in a myriad of finishes with prints even echoing their looks. This couture favorite, once simplified, is a lovely accent. We expect to see more embroideries and lace to follow soon.
Good bye New York. Hello London.