New York Fashion Week Spring-Summer 2015 is a bit confusing as individual designers follow their own paths and few cohesive trends emerge. We are now well into the week and we are finding it difficult to predict just which design cues may roll over into London.
As we’ve been saying, a greater formality is dominating the season – something very much welcomed and timely, if you ask us; this is also allowing American sportswear to shine brightly.
When formality and sartorial simplicity unite, the result may look discreet but it creates such a potent product. With pure eveningwear or evening-related creations, the concept’s modernity provides an interesting twist.
Another trend that we are noticing among the shows is historicism and, more specifically, the discretely veiled references to the late 1960’s and 1970’s. Halston would approve if he were still around, as would Diana Vreeland. Simpler planes of fabrics and key silhouettes are helping guide this trend without turning looks into costumed pastiches.
When textiles are whipped into sculptural forms, this trend takes on a completely new mood and statement. Reinvented tunic tops and ample-legged palazzo pants look as modern and directional today as they did back in the 1920’s for the French beau monde vacationing on the Côte d’Azur (check-out Jacques-Henri Lartigue photos… Amazing!).
And now…an admission. When it comes to talk of prints, our predictions were wrong and we are actually happy about it! Day 5 is proving that prints are back with all their graphic delight. We are not simply talking basic prints but everything from photo-printing to floral to geometric and everything related. On that note, the vibe feels much more British than purely American; it recalls what has been evolving these past few years.
New York often gets a bum rap for not being creative enough and too commercial in its focus. It is partially true, we can’t deny it; but if anyone analyzes this week’s floral applications, one can observe rather clever twists that make this “overtly feminine” pattern into a more wearable fashionable alternative. Who knew that floral could be both conventional and directional?
Where things take a more trendy turn – one that is showcased in current editorialized celebrity portraits of the subjects dressed in one single pattern from head to toe – are the looks featuring patterns that run the full body of the garment. These are not new, they have existed forever, especially with resort looks or summer dresses. The differences this time around are in the bold prints. We think this will stick around and likely morph into something more discreet… very chic.
Strong visual graphics are also making their way into Spring-Summer furs. New York loves its furs year-long and these brightly visual versions are eye-popping and intriguing. Dennis Basso’s embroidered mink evening coat is a stand out.
More collections to come…