The New York Fall 2017 menswear collections began their run this week with a greater focus on the sportswear and ath-leisure looks that are characteristic of the American sportswear legacy.    The tailoring is softer, reflecting the move to easier, more casual styles.  Colors are primarily muted so far with plenty of greys, whites, blacks, browns and camels.  Embellishments were minimal. Plaids, tweeds and checks expand the visual story, but a clean aesthetic prevails.  Layering is key for the New York Fall 2017 menswear collections as it has been in the European collections.  Designers delivered layered looks that ranged from rough-and-tumble streetwear to more put-together polish – a smart move as it will drive the guys to buy more individual pieces to achieve these looks.    Volume continues to be a strong trend with elongated coats, oversized outerwear and wide-legged pants.   Outerwear is hero with statement coats and jackets that help to confirm brand identity.Welcome to the New York Fall 2017 Menswear Collections.

Welcome to the New York Fall 2017 Menswear Collections

The re-imagining of the suit continued with a range of cuts from the slimmer cut, clean looks at Nick Graham,  Maiden Noir and David Hart to the baggier, slouchy delivery of Billy Reid and Brett Johnson.  Joseph Abboud offered a range of styles from trim single button suits to generously proportioned double breasted options.   Garcia Velez and Perry Ellis showed more classic cuts with sneakers to reflect the democratization of the suit.  The boxy jackets and cropped pants at Uri Minkoff offered another fresh and modern approach to the suit.  If the goal of this exercise is to make men want to buy suits, the versatility and flexibility of this season’s offerings may be a step in the right direction.

Designers used plush boiled wools, velvets, chunky knits and plenty of leathers and shearlings to deliver a sumptuous texture story.  Mixing these textures by layering added to the rich visual appeal as did the pairings with plaids, tweeds or checks that have been so prominent throughout the New York Fall 2017 menswear collections so far.

We’re seeing more streetwear influence here, reflected in the layered looks of Krammer Stoudt and N. Hoolywood, the 1970’s boho-inspired looks of Maiden Noir or the hip vibes of EFM.  The drawstring waists and ankles of the ath-leisure pant is adapted effectively into streetwear looks for Garcia Velez, Robert Geller, Woodhouse, N.P. Elliott and Private Policy.  For Dyne it was more a matter of athleticism, while the skateboard culture drove the designs of Dim Mak at the New York Fall 2017 menswear collections.

Across the New York Fall 2017 menswear collections designers presented plenty of strong outerwear looks.  Designers played with proportions from the oversized, elongated top coat at Carlos Campos  and the roomy cuts at Private Policy to the more classic approach at Joseph Abboud.  Texture helped to make the statement with fur and shearling trims and linings or lush velvets.   Jackets in shearling and fur delivered a sturdy, masculine appeal.

As expected, New York’s approach to menswear is taking some new turns.  Let’s see what the week will unveil.

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