More from the Milan spring summer 2018 collections. The parade continues…
If Alberta Ferretti would just stick to what she does best – her drop dead, sexy-as-hell RTW – we wouldn’t protest. But for her spring/summer 2018 collection, she tried a few more “modern” options and we weren’t in love with the results. Let’s start with what worked. Whenever Ferretti makes anything with chiffon, delicate silk, or beads of any kind, what you get is an outfit that is like second skin. Nude colored sequin dresses and short sets with matching bra were out- of-this-world awesome and signature Ferretti. Soft suede bomber jackets and pant suits were yet another example of that special Ferretti touch that we crush on. Where things went wrong were with her pastel lamé separates. Good in concept, the tailoring seemed off. Bulky pants and oversized blouses were an unfortunate effort that was out of step with Ferretti’s reputation.
When you use chiffon overlays with traditional RTW silhouettes what you get is breath-taking elegance. Under the stewardship of Alessandro Dell’Acqua, the No. 21 spring/summer 2018 RTW show was femininity at its finest. Peter Pan collar blouses with illusion details and sequin discs made an everyday top something very special. The same technique was used for accordion pleated or tiered skirts which were flirty and fun. Specially placed marabou feathers gave a 3-D effect that enhanced the depth and dimension of this collection. Rich, supple leathers furthered the luxe textures. A few parka jackets were anything but pedestrian. Leopard stenciled calfskin sandals and bag were the perfect complement to complete the looks.
If the celebrity front row wasn’t enough to hypnotize you, the fashions at Gucci‘s spring/summer 2018 show certainly were. Alessandro Michele has single handedly saved Gucci, pulling it back to its premiere position among luxury brands and leading the pack in all things fashion. His spring/summer 2018 RTW collection was packed stem to stern with layers upon layers of artistic genius. A mixed collection for him and her, it did take a disciplined eye to cut through a lot of the chaos that Michele is known for. Amidst the pattern mixing, fabric juxtaposition, and mash-up of modern and antique twists, what you were left with was all decadence. A whiskey mink jacket with diagonally placed pelts was old and new alike. Capes and coats trimmed in mink and broadtail displayed a sense of occasion. A zebra patterned croc walking coat with broadtail lamb cuffs was pure indulgence! A metallic leather hearts jacket with fox sleeves was pure fun. Worth noting were the necklaces of jewels, stones, pearls and chains that added to the styling of the collection. And oh those bags! They came in a wide range of shapes and styles with lots of references to the iconic Gucci bags of the past as well as plenty of super-cool modern takes that are sure to hold the brand’s status among bag chasers.
Francesco Scognamiglio opened his spring/summer 2018 RTW show with demure, dusty rose dresses then quickly turned up the volume with hot pick metallic leathers. Graphic tees that read “Exposed” played into the idea that there’s a little bad girl in every good girl. A white marabou chubby was a great accent piece and would coordinate well with many of Scognamiglio’s separates. His footwear and hosiery were worth noting, too. White ankle or knee high nylons, paired with scrappy sandals, was an edgy contrast to further the virgin/vixen storyline.
The trend to trim daywear with marabou feathers continued in a big way in the Bruno Cucinelli spring/summer 2018 RTW collection. But Mr. Cucinelli’s subtle delivery conveyed supreme luxury at its finest. He is a master at tailoring and his deft hand showed in paper-bag waist pants and a sleek grey suede suit with drawstring pant. The construction and draping of a tiered organza full-length skirt was magical. Earth tones in clay and olive, safari blouses and flak jackets, all contributed to an Out of Africa exotic feel. But let’s give a huge shout out to two of our favorite looks. A plum fringe jumpsuit with cropped pant was casual on an adrenaline rush and, equally as dynamic, a copper colored snake skin varsity jacket, had us saying “Yasssssss”!
Genny’s artistic director, Sara Cavazza, is a designer who’s anything but subtle or boring. Her spring/summer 2018 collection was sleek, streamlined, body-con, juiced up sex appeal that bordered on futuristic. Tight, white pantsuits with touches of fringe or feathers looked like the next uniform for the hot fashion version of Star Trek. A satin metallic and neon fabric was used to create a short set and pant suit that were steely cool. Her short-waisted poncho made of thin strips of white mink showed the kind of artistry and craftsmanship that defines luxury fashion. Fierce and commanding, for sure. Beam me up, Scotty.
We know and love Max Mara for the finest in outwear and for spring/summer2018 they delivered! Beautifully tailored coats and jackets came in organzas, wool felts and denims. A range of updated classic shapes included slim blazers, pencil skirts and narrow pants that were polished and sophisticated. A series of white looks were crisp and modern while the floral prints added a more ladylike appeal. The black lurex designs had us on the edge of our seats. The pants and jackets had a certain shimmer that made them dance in the light. And the figure-flattering body suit underpinnings made for a great look. This was a collection of strong wardrobe investment pieces that will make the right statement for seasons to come.