Talk about your Spring Awakening, the girly girl in us is loving the fresh, feminine looks coming down the runways this season. They float, the flounce, they are wispy and airy, they are a breath of fresh air. Yet, there is also a good balance of stronger looks that are sharp and polished with prominent shoulders, crisp tailoring and menswear references. It is a good season so far, with plenty of options for the well-dressed woman.
The Aquilano.Rimondi spring RTW collection for 2017 was all business. Take, for example, the menswear suitings in monochromatic whites or chalk stripes with silhouettes that were stiff, crisp and austere. While we love clean, sophisticated looks, these pieces were, in large part, reminiscent of styles we’ve already seen. Two things that the fashion house did very well were handkerchief hem lines and two- tone, liquid metallic fabrics. Some asymmetrical cotton dresses cut on the bias looked like pieces you’d really want to put on for spring. The glistening metallic dresses, skirts, and tops were a completely different feel from the overall collection bringing an exciting and unique edge.
Blumarine is Italian fashion at its finest. For spring 2017 they didn’t disappoint with a collection that was all that you’d desire lounging sea-side and wistfully daydreaming off the Amalfi coast. Soft cotton dresses, petal pushers and tap pants were all a wonderful nod to the 1950’s. Blouson sleeves added a charming femininity that combined nicely with the soft blush color palette. What was a welcome and unexpected surprise was a most beautiful bath robe style mink coat with taffeta plaid panels and dyed fox banding around the bodice. In the same rose colors, it simply made us flush with excitement.
When looking at certain designer collections you almost hold your breath in amazement when they captivate your imagination. Zhu Chongyun ’s Krizia spring RTW 2017 showing was very much that way. Fabrics that were whisper soft and slightly see-through were draped and shaped in some of the most sensual ways. Ruffles, deep v necklines, and thigh high slits all played into the ethereal designs. A favorite you ask? A powder blue mohair tunic with plunging neckline, ruffles, and a hint of a zebra print…sex-y!!
Take one part Latin born designer and add in the finest textiles and what do you get? Bally’s spring 2017 collection. The nonpareil Swiss fashion house has turned its reputation for “business boring” over to designer Pablo Coppola and his en fuego creative direction. Hot pink, tangerine, and tomato color blocking on a mink stroller elicited pure, heart-pounding elation. Coppola kept the silhouettes stream -lined and genteel using light weight wool crepe or two-ply cottons. Mesh leather tank tops and trench coats reminded us of Bally’s command in leather goods. Bally’s shoes are always a mainstay and the spring season gave lots of flat loafers and espadrilles to choose from.
Co-designers Mirko Fontana and Diego Marquez didn’t shy away from fashion that makes you go “hummm” for fashion brand Au Jour Le Jour. Their SS 2017 collection included a medley of color in pattern and fabric mixing that all had a certain “I don’t know what I want to be when I grow up” kind of quality. Childlike gingham ruffles with sorority girl Greek letters and sexy NC17 liquid mini-skirts were all incorporated in one outfit that left us confused yet curious. The collection was vibrant and spring like and will appeal to the party girl crowd.
The spring 2017 RTW collection that Consuelo Castiglioni of Marni built was solid on architectural designs that will withstand the test of time. A modular composition of shirts, dresses, pants, and trench coats, the styles riffed on an outback theme. Large, puffy pockets that looked like purses carried the looks through along with an earthly color pallet of sand, egg shell, and adobe red. Some plisse dresses done in fine prints were a welcome departure from the otherwise temperate collection. Castiglioni is a risk-taker, a maverick in her own right, and sits easily within the company of other contemporary designers the likes of Miuccia Prada.