There can be no argument that Philipp Plein’s Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2017 collection was speaking to a girl with a certain penchant for urban glam Acid washed denim paired with thick gold chain necklaces were only half the story…add rich brocades, gladiator high heels, and flat caps, this was a high-voltage kind of chic. Season after season he puts out collections that are energetic and full of fun. Plein hinted to lots of references of the hyper-sexy bold looks of Versace in the 80’s including sexy mesh, animal prints, Baroque prints, cut-outs and lots of silver and gold. More is more here for sure. Plein hired Fergie as the headline entertainer and Paris Hilton to model. Need we say more about the demographics of his clients?
Let’s start with what worked in the Emilio Pucci spring RTW collection for 2017- arresting and powerful color-block prints on flirty mini-skirts were fresh and modern. Jersey gave the line a younger, sportier feel. This was a nice departure from the fine prints and slim lines the house has been known for in the past. But that was only a small capsule put forth by creative director Massimo Giorgetti. In his attempt to put his own finger print on the iconic brand, he showed solid-colored, gauzy looks in silhouettes that that were either mid-calf dresses or gauchos; it was hard to tell because the fabric seemed to be stuck in-between the models’ thighs. Maybe these looks were meant to been seen standing still only?
Arguably the most stunning RTW yet this season, Stefania Bandiera nailed the fine balance between ladylike and sexy in her Les Copains SS 2017 collection. You know how women on the streets of Milan just seem to look really put together all the time? This collection delivered that effortless chic that seems to define them. Simple silhouettes with just the right detailing and accessorizing to create style and confidence should prove to be strong at retail. The black and white knit maxi-dress with organza inserts was a scene stealer in every way.
It was all in the accessories at Fendi’s spring 2107 RTW show. From purses that were so artfully crafted they belonged under glass, to the fun fur accents in coats and vests, to the “of the moment” accessory, a little fur floral bag decoration, the choice is yours. The clothes were a mix of bold stripes and romantic garden prints with dresses, coats and shorts offering surprising twists. There were lots of solid wardrobe building pieces here. And oh those furs! Fendi knows how to do fur! The floral intarsia swing coat was pure spring fun. The striped fox bib gave sport luxe new meaning. A striped jacket with button detail and intarsia mink bodice was genius.
For a brand so well known for vibrant colored tapestry patterns, Etro dialed the color meter way back for SS 2017. 2017 Neutral tones of beige, brown and black were a significant departure from the rich jewel tone pattern mixing we’ve come to expect. The looks all had the trademark Etro luxe with rich, shimmery satins and generous cuts. The brand’s hallmark paisley was used throughout the collection to good effect. Tiny tassels dangled from necklines and waists and, along with the ponchos, maxis and beaded caftans, gave a kind of boho flair. It was a bit of a departure for Etro but there was enough of the brand legacy to keep their clients happy.
Betty Boop has nothing on the Moschino girl of today. True to his kitsch and cartoonish antics, designer Jeremy Scott ups the ante by offering luxury combined with fun. These are clothes that aren’t supposed to be taken too seriously. We loved the play with prints….the trompe l’oiel sketch of a body that opened the show, the painted chain belts with the Moschino logo, the cut- out teddy bears that framed a neck line and the colored pills scattered on a sweatshirt. For those who have the confidence and the humor to wear these clothes there were plenty of solid, well-tailored and very wearable silhouettes. Scott played with the paper doll theme, white tabs and all, sending out clothes that were so fantastical and witty. Thanks for the smiles Jeremy!