Few labels conjure up the love of femininity like Valentino. There is something otherworldly about the Valentino name, the sophistication it represents and the impeccable touch that has become its trademark. Valentino Garavani — the original Monsieur Valentino — made his name by dressing the ‘golden society’ of his day, the way Jean Dessès had done before him, and Jacques Fath before that.

RUNWAY FASHION VIDEO HERE

Details on how to view the collection live, here.

How on earth can anyone develop a contemporary line in the footsteps of this master? The answer is in the muslin, the satin, the leather and the broadtail, as worked by Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli. These two are deftly redeveloping what Valentino is today and will become tomorrow.

Direct Link: http://youtu.be/jHAzIh5cto8

This particular line-up, aside from its numerous looks, channeled some expected key Valentino trademarks — red gowns, ethereal pink creations, ‘polite’ jackets, that very special luxe finish. What Chiuri and Piccioli unexpectedly introduced this time was a more hard-edged quality with lots of black and leather. Part of this collection could be well suited for an updated version of Luis Buñel’s Belle de Jour.

In actuality, the pair reflected folkloric influences, which became apparent with the embroidered pieces and some of the patch-work looks. Folkloric can mean many things; in this case, some late 18th century Campania-style embroideries, some 19th century smocking and even some 20th century Russian fantasy.

This collection couldn’t have been more different than what Valentino Garavani might have done himself; though, these two managed to distill enough Valentino-esque touches to maintain the rich and elegant heritage of a Valentino collection. The fur details, for example, were kept to broadtail and pony, which camouflaged effortlessly with leather, crepe and satin. The overall look, clean and modern, still delivers the love of femininity that made the Valentino name.

NOTE: FURINSIDER JUST LEARNED THAT YOU CAN SEE THE 2012 VALENTINO FUR COLLECTION THIS THURSDAY (6/14) AND FRIDAY (6/15) EXCLUSIVELY IN THE FUR SALON AT SAKS FIFTH AVENUE BEVERLY HILLS. YOU OWE IT TO YOURSELVES TO SEE THIS COLLECTION UP-CLOSE AND PERSONAL!