What is an “enfant terrible” to do once he has earned his place as one of the fashion industry’s pillars? Well, if you are the one and only Jean Paul Gaultier, you revisit your DNA and deliver updates. Jean Paul Gaultier Fall 2013 honored outerwear as much as it did eveningwear. The multitude of treatments bounced back and forth between the two with an uncanny formality. His voyeur windowpane print vignettes revisited his 80’s whimsy. The print was everywhere, even used as lining for some of his fur pieces.
Fur, as it turned out, was this collection’s driving force. He even introduced a multicolored intarsia sheared-mink Gaultier logo. The furs ran the gamut from bomber jackets to full coats to shawl neck tops. The windowpane idea migrated into multi-fur tone-on-tone creations. Mr. Gaultier’s first job in fashion, by the way, was fur design.
Loewe Fall 2013 | Paris Fashion Week
Loewe is finally back on track thanks to Stuart Vevers, who is not only embracing the Maison’s leatherwork expertise but also elements of Spanish culture and folklore. This season he was inspired by a complex Hitchcock muse and added a strong sex appeal to his line-up, or was it a little bite of fetishism? Regardless, the collection had great looks and embarked on an obvious campaign to make Loewe a “go-to” label for everything leather as well as exceptional outerwear. The oversized spongy shearling coats (including a great one with gauntlet lacing) will bring converts to the label. So will some of the leather “fisherman” tops. They looked great. A particularly timely look with a bit of Spanish Mod style, his shearling coats with patent leather pockets. Fall 2013 is Mr. Vever’s best collection to date.