Chanel holds a place in the world all its own, so when the House of Chanel decided to showcase Chanel Fall 2013 around a monumental globe pointing to its world boutique presence, it makes sense. The poetic line-up was a space-age medieval medley of sorts.
First, mink head-caps introduced a new millinery style (a cross between a 20s bob by way of Hans Memling portraiture). The silhouettes favored rounded shoulders (think armor details in Chanel tweed), gauntlet sleeves, even, a few tunic shapes (their modernity came in a stark, if not, blunt handling). As expected, the collection was really a triumph in design evolution. Few labels can literally infuse a myriad of foreign influences and still keep the visual identity honest. It takes a leading originality to keep the double-C logo relevant.
Jean-Charles de Castelbajac Fall 2013 | Paris Fashion Week
Jean-Charles de Castelbajac chanelled late Victoriana culture this season. Or, was it really Edwardian? Regardless, he referenced the famous Pre-Raphaelite masterpiece, “Drowning Ophelia,” by John Everett Millais, amongst a variety of other English vernacular. So, with his advanced sense of humor and cartoony sensibility, fox hunting, cableknit and plaid made the rounds to complete his vision.
Monsieur de Castelbajac is often overlooked in the annals of fashion history, even though he has continually and adroitly introduced a specific sensibility since the 70s. His blanket coats are legendary, as are his daywear and outerwear, and his cultural appropriations. This line-up provides a twist on classic ideas by injecting a bit of fun into great separates.. His Punk fur pieces were great and unusually wearable… especially in red and black fox.