Elie Saab is slowly and steadily becoming one of the greats. His collections are beautiful and his clothes truly honor the women who wear them. We already know he dresses his girls for red carpets, galas and elite affairs to perfection, but this collection shows the world that he can do Daywear too. Of course, Daywear chez Monsieur Saab means super chic understated garments. His suits and ensembles were lovely, everything down to the hems were fine-tuned to the hilt. But for us (no surprise) it was his sweater-like furs that made us swoon. The horizontal treatment not only looked great, but made the fur so light and flowy that it might very well redefine the concept of casual dressing.
What do you get if you mix the Mad Hatter’s guest list for tea and the Orient Express? Visually, you’d get the latest Louis Vuitton extravaganza of a show! Seriously, we love our Vuitton like the next person, but this line-up is going to be a hard sell. Surprisingly, the fur pieces were by far the most wearable and the most interesting. We love the millinery touch, which is so unexpected, yet, could easily become a trend. There were a few jackets –cut à la Directoire– that will definitely make their mark. But, the overall look was hard to grasp… it looked a little cartoony… something we would expect from another label, not Louis Vuitton.
Korean designer Lie Sang Bong might be relatively new to the Paris fashion week circuit, but he is definitely not a novice. This collection, like his preceding ones, had enough pomp and circumstance… and funk to impress. As ‘nutty” as his collections looks at first glance, the line-up is always composed of very well thought-out pieces made with a strong tailoring hand and design savvy. Of course, “Weird” always grasps the editors’ attention and guaranties a few articles in the annals of fashion.
In all of the Paris Fashion Week madness there are a few shows that we meant to cover, but have fallen out of sync. So here they are….no less worthy of review:
Céline is fast becoming one of our favorite labels. We simply adore what Phoebe Philo is doing there. Not only is the collection sleek and unusually discreet, it possesses so much common sense. Very few collections, or designers for that matter, can so beautifully marry the avant garde with the practical. For anyone who has reservations about color blocking, this collection will help you change your stand. Her materials and colors are harmoniously pared with great cuts and a wise understanding of draping, making this collection read like sheet music.
If you have never heard of Lahssan by Dryce, it’s not your fault; the label is totally new and showed for the first time this past year. The philosophy behind the label is based on reinterpreting the trench coat. This label is rather cerebral to say the least, even Rei Kawakubo has taken notice, and Saga Furs of Scandinavia was so enthralled with the work that they sponsored it. One of its emerging trademarks is paring fur with the gabardine canvas. This time Finn raccoon was the fur of choice not only for its natural color but also for its texture and ombré quality.