Chloé’s latest collection, Clare Waight Keller’s second since taking over the label, is an airy-breezy sportswear affaire. The collection not only made sense as a whole, it was a welcome and refreshing stamp on the fashion landscape. We know that colors are big this season, that comfort and luxe are the duo du jour. Chloé is tapping on that and some. The line-up was full of great sportswear separates marrying British relaxed styling with French sophistication – a win-win combo in this case.
It is no secret that designers have an ongoing love affair with architecture and art, and Pedro Lourenço is no exception. He credited the video work of Russian artist Kon Trubkovich’s as inspiration for this particular line-up, which blends beautifully moody photo-prints with sculptural/architectural forms. His coats were construction marvels, where the textiles (including leather) were juxtaposed so precisely that they looked as if carved-out instead of sewn. His fur applications enhanced the sculptural aspect with volume. Barely into his twenties Mr. Lourenço is one to watch!
Vanessa Bruno’s contemporary take on Dryads (the ancient Greek mythological wood nymphs) came with a few surprises this season – mainly a Japanese Anime twist applied to the classic subject matter. The color palette was obviously ‘woodsy’ and dark. The forest is a fantasy-filled theme; it offers so many textures to choose from. From tree barks to filtered light to fluctuating foliage colors in daylight or nighttime, the inspirations are endless. Embroidered sheared mink beautifully translated this poetic theme, which was paired with textiles.
Stefano Pilati’s Yves Saint Laurent collection was a walk on the dark side… in the shoes of a sleek, tough femme fatale (not the expected muse you would anticipate with the Yves Saint Laurent name). This somber collection couldn’t have been more different from the YSL colorful muse of yesteryears, the one who loved history and flaunted her sensuality effortlessly. Pilati’s line-up delivered narrow silhouettes cut from the shoulder accessorized with black leather touches, including chainmail and imposing black fur trims.