Sacai’s latest collection, as described by designer Chitose Abe herself, was an exercise in menswear attributions. She raided the menswear vocabulary and readapted many key elements, such as shoulder cuts and suit lapels, to create a womenswear collection that was, well, very womenswear. The sporty outerwear was by far the strongest and most visible example referencing this exercise. She added a myriad of wool and leather jackets to the mix, many ornamented with sleeves and visible pockets in high-tech textiles and fur details and complemented many looks with shearling.
When it comes to printed silk scarves Léonard is one of the juggernaut go-to labels. This season, the house showed a line-up that was both atypical and scandalous – atypical in that the collection didn’t sport as many printed silk pieces as before, scandalous in that its new designer, Maxime Simoens, showed his first and last collection. Who said that fashion was boring? The fragmented seection embraced a somewhat Asian flair (mainly through embroideries) and a strong eveningwear bent, all executed with very youthful proportions. Like it or hate it, there were some beautiful pieces to choose from. Our favorite was the black mink and stamped leather jacket.
Giambattista Valli‘s latest collection couldn’t have been more sportswear for the designer whose sensibility is often much more Couture oriented. The line-up played on tweeds, printed silks, and a red/black/grey/white color quarto. He used so much fur in his last couture show that he opted for a more focused and experimental treatment this time. He worked white and black fox, as well as black and silver fox, into herringbone and chevron motifs that camouflaged themselves with their accompanying tweed garment. This experimentation is sure to be returning, as it could very well become a Valli trademark.
Valentin Yudashkin has been called the Russian Lacroix, Versace, or Valentino… He’s really a little bit of everybody, earning him the recognition as one of the most famous designers in Moscow. His style is often extravagant, very much a recipe of luxurious excesses. For the past few years he chose Paris to show his collections; is it the Parisian light or the sign of a maestro willing to see the world differently? This collection was so pared-down to its bare minimum – somber colors, clean cuts, beautiful materials– that it looked like a French collection. We don’t know what is happening chez Yudashkin, but keep it up!