Tsumori Chisato embraced the alpine charms of après-ski dressing for her latest collection. The outfits looked at the alpine vernacular as inspiration – anything and everything from landscape imagery to ski gear to traditional woolen hosiery was fair game. Of course, graphics played an important role from textile designs to garment layering with this line-up. Because Tsumori Chisato is always a little ‘cartoony’ and always fun, it’s hard to dislike her. Fur-wise, handbags took over for the expected footwear, and fur equally adorned jackets and trimmed tops. This collection is very much an example of the whimsical nature of the Tsumori Chisato brand of sportswear.
Viktor & Rolf’s latest collection was as artistic as it was experimental… and a whopper of a line-up. We know that these two like to tackle experimental concepts and are not afraid to ruffle a few feathers in the process; this time, they turned their garments into sculptural marvels. Some looks were as sleek and fluid as mercury, others looked like sheer shells outlined in fur, and the pieces de resistance were the intricately designed fur coats. Every aspect of the appearance and characteristic of the particular fur used –mink’s gloss, Finn raccoon’s density, and fox’s ombré hues– were used for maximum impact. Of course the show looked a little over the top, we ‘ll see what the “civilian” versions look like when they hit the stores in the fall.
Vivienne Westwood also engaged volume in her collection. She delivered the usual knockout historical-inspired gowns and jackets with a nice dose of color touches, and even had a model in an ostrich feather off-the-shoulder number riding a bicycle up and down the runway. Can’t fault Vivienne for being Vivienne… she’s one of a kind. Within the fur creations, she looked at shearling, or reversible pelts, to create demure jackets and ‘grands manteaux’ that were hybrids of wrap-coats as well as cocoon-coats in Mongolian lamb.
Jean Paul Gaultier referenced Graffiti for his latest collection. The line-up surely embraced color, with little tags of it here, there and everywhere. But our favorites were his reinterpretations of iconic pieces, including the trench coat. There were gowns, jackets, suits….all with enough fun twists and details to excite. But it was the fur treatments that are going to make the editorial rounds. Jean Paul Gaultier is a couturier and it shows even in his prêt à porter collections. The savoir-faire he applied to the furs is astonishing in his creativity and execution. As they say, once a master, always a master.
Loewe’s latest collection was an exciting event, a beautiful exercise respecting the house’s Spanish heritage. It is nice to see Stuart Vevers make a conscious effort to channel Spanish culture while designing his collections. This time, Andalusian horse dressing was brought out to energize a sleek line-up that looked a little more 1960’s London. Though the looks didn’t grasp any equestrian details per se, the leathers, shearlings and fur details echoed both animal and rider just the same with a strong emphasis on black. A few color touches livened the collection with lovely pink, which softened the stark delivery.