New York Fashion Week 2012 - ALL POSTS
Industry veteran Adrienne Landau showed a collection that read like a film in three parts –each bringing to the forefront a different dichotomy expressed and translated in furs. The Landau touch is free hand and unapologetic. She puts her creative stamp on a broad range of fur types from rabbit to sable, always introducing unexpected new treatments that have established her as a fur design pioneer. Her new trompe l’oeil effect this season is an innovative addition to an already extensive vocabulary that makes this designer a cross-generational favorite.
Ralph Lauren delivered another chapter in the Ralph Lauren story, introducing a new design detail that is an homage to the 1920′s with a maharaja’s touch. For Fall 2012 he introduced a new tiger/leopard pattern that is as elegant as it is fun….especially in fur! The stencil pieces look amazing and surprisingly act more as a neutral than an exotic pattern. Hopefully this addition is here for the long haul.
The Bill Blass name is coming back to life one collection at a time since its tumultuous collapse a few years ago. This Fall 2012 collection showed great promise and concrete signs that the Bill Blass name is on the mend. Of course good old American sportswear ignited the creative stream. The looks were sleek and proper, bringing that patrician vibe back to prominence. The few touches of furs, from trims to jackets, beautifully heralded the house’s WASP heritage.
Ralph Rucci is the closest thing to a national treasure when it comes to American high fashion. He is one of a handful of designers in history who has developed a style so distinct that it is recognizable the world over. This collection was undeniably younger, exuded a newly rediscovered sense of femininity, and looked ultra-luxe still, but with a flirty wink this time. We are obsessed with his fur treatments, especially his sleeves. His sheared mink sweatshirt is a showstopper; his coat with red-dyed chinchilla cocoon sleeves is a forte in fur construction.
Elie Tahari’s latest collection was an ode to color, color blocking and tone on tone combinations. The overall collection saw blue (in every shade from cobalt to Prussian), and then finished with purple/pink notes. The excitement was not only in the vivid hues, but also the textiles and texture juxtapositions. The dash of furs came with the accessories…dyed fox scarves to match the collection’s many hues.
We love our Olsen Twins, the way they are immersed in fashion and manage to be part of it on so many levels. Their Elizabeth and James label, the lighter and younger counterpart of The Row, is making its mark and showing great potential. Of course, the look is Boho chic; these two love their oversized garments and slouchy outerwear. Who says that PJs can’t work outside? The collection delivered a compact wardrobe of great tailored jackets, coats, and pants, complemented with great knits –including some fur versions- and lovely prints. The collection’s styling may be questionable, but the clothes speak for themselves.