Dsquared2 dropped the moody and somber hues it favored for more than a few past collections and decided to replace them with dashes of upbeat colors. The theme may have been a high school prom dance, but the looks were much more 1960’s rich girl. There was a little Saint Tropez nod with a few Brigitte Bardot twists. But, given the Caten twins’ clever take on things, were these young ladies actually young cougars in the making? Mademoiselles Robinsons? The collection was so refreshing in its optimism that we expect a Renaissance of sorts for Dsquared2 and its vocabulary; and, we are loving it. The fur touches were, as expected, abundant. The stenciled leopard prints worked surprisingly well with the colorful looks, the grey mink anorak rocked! But our favorite was the horizontal striped mink sweatshirt.
Color was also on Giorgio Armani’s mind this season, but of course in a much more restrained manner. Armani is a consummate maestro when it comes to tailoring and sportswear and this collection didn’t stray from his tried and true formula. His savoir-faire comes in the “easy pieces” and his experimental touches. This time, his focal points include Bermuda shorts, a much softer handling in his tailoring ( draping details that soften up everything from necklines to lapels), and large volume fur pieces –the furs varied from goat hair chubby jackets to bi-color goat/fox hybrids, to fun flirty ponchos, to sleek zippered jackets). The collection felt younger than past ones, but never deviated from that recognizable Armani DNA. Why change what works?
Describing Roberto Cavalli’s love of animal patterns and glitzy excess is like acknowledging that Snookie likes a drink or two and likes to be in front of a camera. This designer is so honest about his Baroque sensibilities, so blunt in his expressions, that it is, frankly, refreshing. This time, he went full-throttle, brought out the big guns, and delivered so much great stuff that this collection could be apotheosized for the fashion books. The detail and originality of each garment was given full force upon close viewing. He not only played with his leopard-tiger print, transposing it to seemingly forbidden applications but Python was stenciled to look like a big cat’s markings, a sheared fur was lasered to resemble reptilian patterns and feather skirts were actually fur tuffs… it was a surreal menagerie that only a brilliant mind could dare to achieve.
Welcome back Gianfranco Ferré! It seems that this venerated Italian name is finally getting its act together. This collection could be considered more minimal than many of the collections shown this past week, but the namesake’s architectural touches are still present. The sharpness of the cuts work beautifully with the textiles and furs and the colors were kept cool and clean. The texture and weight of the materials used adapted elegantly to the body’s own shape. An exceptional step for the label….congratulations to Stefano Citron and Federico Piaggi are in order.