Joan Jett is a beloved muse for Italian designers this fashion cycle. Case in point: Frankie Morello’s latest collection delivered enough Rock ‘n’ Roll notes and Joan Jett references to please her die-hard fans. But that was just a veneer; the line-up was as much about high-octane color as it was about tough, cutting-edge looks. Who else showed leather knee pads? Florescent orange fur trims? Regardless, the line-up was much more tame once focusing on individual pieces. It demonstrated a good sportswear handling.
The past few seasons may have been tumultuous for Salvatore Ferragamo, but that’s a thing of the past now. It’s always nice to see a collection that is well conceived and beautifully executed. This womenswear line-up, based on menswear tailoring and military uniform, is able to grasp and realize femininity from this seemingly strong and silent man behind the fashion mirror. The tailoring, especially with the leathers and furs, including the broadtail, is particularly impressive. The ability to create softness within an overwhelmingly black collection is a work of art in and of itself. Bravo!
Whereas Ferragamo played down color, Aquilano.Rimondi embraced it. This duo’s latest collection is a Renaissance master painter’s delight. Many of its fabrics referenced Italian Renaissance paintings, yet managed to remain contemporary. The garment cuts were impeccable as were the material choices. The collection read much more alta moda than sportswear from start to finish. It shows that Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi are true masters in their own rights.
The Versus’ collection glamorized the Londoner youth angst of Camden. The line-up wasn’t truly punk, grunge, nor rock, but instead a polished mélange of all the aforementioned. It was also much more relaxed than the Versace show we saw a few days ago. Versus is, as a rule, younger and a little more freehand in its approach and handling. The punk notes came with the t-shirt slicing combined with mesh, the grunge in the layered styling, and rock with the leather pants and chubby fur jackets.
The Philipp Plein collection was certainly broad, and then some… there was even some menswear thrown into the mix. He delivered so many looks in this collection that it felt a little like a fashion parade. The line-up was pure sportswear injected with humor and a strong Rock n’ Roll visual vocabulary… but a very Italian one. The humor came in the form of appliqué/intarsia fur pieces, and a few mirroring knitted pieces. Philipp Plein loves his furs and isn’t afraid to shown it.
One more day from Milan to come.
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