We know that color blocking is a global fashion trend for Fall 2012, but does this color-blocking extend to fur design? Marni definitely seems to think so! This label may sometimes be difficult to comprehend and digest, but it is all of their unexpected proportions, juxtapositions, and summations of garment-types that make Marni an influential force. This time around the collection showcased a linear and architectural silhouette in a variety of colors. Modular applications of fur created bold, geometric looks.
Trussardi also played with modular fur use with its coats, though in this instance it was more about juxtaposing fur’s texture with exotic skins like python. The collection’s stated inspiration, Peru’s Machu Picchu, seemed apparent only with the colors. The overall silhouette remained tailored, if not slightly masculine in its sharp elongations. This line-up was beautiful, leaving little doubt as to why this once-venerated label is coming back to life.
Laura Biagiotti knows a thing or two about cashmere and outerwear. This season, she reworked commonly seen coat shapes, adding volume to plump them up a notch. The cocoon effect and trapeze silhouette worked wonderfully well with her layered daywear. We were particularly excited about the Glen plaid (Prince of Wales print) ensemble that reflected a bit of menswear camouflage and presented a template of trompe l’œil for the ladies. For one particular short coat, she stenciled sheared fur to mirror its cashmere lining. The question in the room: is this piece reversible?
Sicilian vernacular culture of last century (really late 18th century and early 19th century) ignited the inspiration behind this Dolce & Gabbana collection, which felt like a painter’s Campagna-redux. The line-up presented lovely floral embroideries, sumptuous golden touches and enough surprises to jilt the most jaded editors out of their chairs. Now, let’s move onto the furs, which came-out as capes (though shorter than the one shown for the previous menswear line-up) and tippets (we’re still unsure about this trend). Our favorite fur look, hands down, was the leopard stenciled mink cape trimmed in black lamb.
Byblos was, at one time (the late 1980′s-early 1990′s), one of the most sought-after labels for young fashionistas. They’re back!!!!!!! This collection was filled with sleek looks, bold silhouettes and dressed-up sportswear.
At Missoni the trademark striated multicolored knits are certainly iconic, if not sometimes a bit overwhelming. But for fall 2012 they seem to have gotten it right, presenting a collection that is really an example of what makes Missoni so special and so irresistible. Chic is the key word here. The collection is so elegant in its restraint that it is redefining what the label can be. The streamlined silhouettes worked wonders and the fur details looked harmoniously at home with the woolens.
Milan’s not over yet! Still more to come….
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