Krizia’s latest collection is both retrospective and forward thinking. Mariuccia Mandelli looked back at the Krizia of the 1970′s and 1980′s, when the label reinvented the coat on a regular basis, reconfigured the way shoulders were cut, and reinterpreted the use of graphics in knits. At the same time she looked towards the future with her styling and her use of fur as a compartmentalized design component (sleeves, handbags, footwear…it’s everywhere). The collection, featuring a rusty color palette that embraces nature’s seasonal change, celebrates the necessary layering of garments and the enjoyment of an open coat and furry accessory.
If you haven’t heard of Jo No Fui, that is about to change. This up-and-coming sportswear label is making its mark season after season with strong key pieces that are as original for their choice of materials as they are for their color applications. This season green and black were the strong color accents and karakul is the fur of choice throughout the collection. Shapes varied greatly, as did the proportions, supporting the futuristic theme. Strong and bold, this collection had the kind of pizzazz that should translate well at retail.
Talking about being introspective, Prada went back into its archives and delivered an updated version of its iconic 1990′s belted suits and coats. This time, though, the wool gabardine creations came reinterpreted as broadtail marvels, dyed or rinsed in rich hues. Of course, to keep up with her love of techno-plastic charms, these little baubles accented the various ensembles like macro-embroideries. Miuccia Prada prides herself on being a trendsetter. If the world follows her with this collection, high luxury will be a keynote of the season.
We are falling in love with Maurizio Pecoraro’s latest collection. This one effortlessly combined sportswear and evening luxe. The strong tailoring and great choice of materials are so complementary, especially when softened with an impromptu styling quality. The muted colors range from oxidized blood-red to black with a few splashes in cobalt, marrying easily throughout the leather, silk and fur pieces. The belted pieces, and outerwear in general, are particularly strong. Congratulations.
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