London Fashion Week 2012 - ALL POSTS
The Last Days of London Fashion Week…
Peter Jensen’s collection celebrated milliner Thelma Speirs as his go-to muse. The sportswear looks had a sweet 1950′s feel that translated rather well. A little prim and proper goes a long way. The colorful and fun line-up played with the classics, including the little mink piece.
David Koma is one to watch! Each collection he changes course to deliver an entirely new look. He’s done the art thing, now he’s looking at fashion luminaries like Courrèges and Rabanne, but really just as seasoning. His line-up was very strong and showed his forceful hand at tailoring. He pushed the envelope a few times during the show, playing with fur applications in the process.
Roksanda Ilincic’s latest collection embraced sportswear as a total wardrobe, but one treated as an equivalent to couture when it comes to luxurious touches. She’s been dabbling in this for a while now, so it didn’t surprise us when the furs started rolling out one by one. She’s even added a little trompe l’œil with the prints. Do we smell a trend?
There is color, color blocking and then there is Holly Fulton’s collection. She took the color trend to another level this collection, creating architectural new Art Déco prints, mostly within the same color range. The looks were strong and graphic and surprisingly simple in silhouette. It’s all about balance. Her fur pieces came in the form of oversized Mongolian lamb purses dyed to harmonize the looks.
When it comes to throwing a good show, the Meadham Kirchhoff duo knows what to do. Their latest collection is a fantasy to be remembered. How to describe this fun decadence? Is it a little Alice in Wonderland? Is it alien disco? It doesn’t really matter; it really is about embracing unconventional style and being a colorful extrovert. The styling took the looks over-the-top (those wigs and make-up!?!), but once stripped down, the individual items demonstrated a good handling. The fur pieces were probably the most interesting. Who translates a peacock feather ‘s eye in fox? These two just did.
There was something really dark about Aminaka Wilmont’s latest collection. Was it a cyber-Goth muse who helped develop the line-up? Regardless, the looks were edgy, though surprisingly tame within their dark aura. It really was more apparent in the styling than in the clothing. We loved the anthracite rinsed fox jacket. The shape and the color worked amazingly well and looked very luxe and chic.
James Long’s collection was a beautiful marriage of print and texture with a distinct point of view. The unusual juxtapositions started to gel as a uniform message with each look coming out. The line-up never looked ethnographic, but maintained a somewhat folkloric quality with the striated woolens and prints. The look that really fascinates us is his shearling cropped jacket with treated sleeves. As odd as it looks, it is very interesting.
Next: Reviews from Milan
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