The Haute couture shows are now behind us. We have digested the collections, looked at a few emerging trends and have some thoughts to share with you. Remember too, the haute couture shows serve as a leading indicator of the details to expect in the next round of the Ready-to-Wear collections!
In case you are not familiar with Haute Couture rules and regulations, there are currently 9 full members (i.e.: Chanel Christian Dior), 4 corresponding members (i.e.: Elie Saab, Valentino), and 8 invited members (i.e.: Bouchra Jarra, Iris Van Herpen) allowed to show alongside the greats. Of course, there are also more than a few extra names (clues: they are very easy to decipher) with well-funded P.R. machines who crashed couture week and basked in its sun.
Direct Link: http://youtu.be/uebZS0RpEuM
Part 1 in our series reviewing the Haute couture collections…
Christophe Josse played it dark and tailored with an updated femme fatale. The reflective play of silk satins and wool crepes was accentuated with exotic crocodile leather and jet-dyed fur trims and patched details. The silhouette, though, looked much more city daywear than evening glam, as is often associated with that type of muse.
Raf Simons’ first Christian Dior collection was a brilliant exercise in fashion history for a studious and attentive pupil. Simons looked back at what Monsieur Dior did himself (1947-1957) and adroitly updated the modernity of its original cuts and proportions (i.e.: adding pockets). He reintroduced the coatdress, a staple of the 1940′s and 1950′s, which he delivered as one or two-pieces; of course, there were also a few gowns thrown into the mix. He took furs, including astrakhan and mink, treated them as mere textiles and delivered something new altogether.
Iris Van Herpen is really one to follow. Her sensibility is….different, but we are fans. She introduced a sci-fi silhouette in this collection that brought back memories of Thierry Mugler’s heyday (1980′s-1990′s). One of her most memorable looks was an intricately constructed armor-like pants ensemble that was literally sculpted out of ‘Pony’ and a hard-shell synthetic. Her execution really honors what haute couture is all about: a creative lab and a platform for launching new design ideas. Iris Van Herpen will go far.
Jean Luc Amsler’s collection was a corset study – more appropriately an exercise in corset dissection and deconstruction. He served a few looks entirely based on corsetry and its relationship to the visible skin in and around it. He also introduced a few fur tippets in vivid hues, which surprised for their neon quality as much as they also reference belle époque costume. The line-up was definitely wild and even had a discerning Street Style vibe.
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