ARMANI PRIVÉ is Giorgio ARMANI’s adept foray into the world of haute couture. Season after season, he gets more comfortable with his craft and vision to deliver strong and concise line-ups. This time, he channeled traditional Japanese kimono details to great effect, including a few traditional prints, motifs and accessories. His angular silhouettes, following the stiffness of wrapped kimonos, still managed to bring out a polite femininity with built-in corsets and panel draping in velvets and satins.
MAISON RABIH KAYROUZ’s tiny show of 7 pieces was a sonnet to the minimalists on every level. The items, seemingly void of any excess and ornamentation, still possessed embellishments with the textile choices and placements. This newcomer is making his mark one step at a time and shouldn’t be overlooked. Being invited to show alongside the big names is an honor in itself.
GIVENCHY’s collection was small by all accounts, only 10 pieces, but the artistry Riccardo TISCI displayed is paramount. His usual taste for black and ‘Goth’ found in past collections was replaced with a lighter ethereal selection. With a new white slate, he worked and reworked the texture of each piece to the hilt. The hours of controlled embroidery work shows and equally amazes just the same.
JULIEN FOURNIE is a newcomer onto the couture scene in more ways than one. Firstly, he is one of the new bloods invited to show alongside the masters; they clearly see something in him. Whereas many onlookers expect prettied gowns and lapels, Fournié’s ammunition is hardedge street style. Once getting over the initial take, the looks are quite innovative in their use of drapery, construction and embroideries. It might take a little getting used to, but it won’t take him long to get converts.
CHANEL took a stroll on the dark side with this collection. The overall dusk colors look surprisingly romantic in their overwhelmingly monochromatic range, despite a few spatters of fuchsia and white. Karl LAGERFELD’s masterful hand served the usual suspects in tweeds and sequins, but the 1910’s silhouettes were where the innovations ensued. Some jackets, coats and gowns had peplums, others even had rounded forms atop.
Next up….DAY 3!