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Boytown Paris Fall 2012-Winter 2013 | UK-OK

As a rule, menswear is evolutionary and not revolutionary; that super-directional ability goes to womenswear… and on a fairly continuous loop, I might add. When it comes to menswear, we don’t expect a complete sartorial shuffle each season, only a few garment additions.

Boytown Paris - Fashion Week - Fall 2012-Winter 2013 - UK-OK

Academic Male Nude by Wilhelm von Gloeden

With the latest cycle of shows, Paris brought out a few experimental notes, loads of surface treatments, more colors than usual, a little more leather and gender-bender notes –in this case it’s really more about men re-attributing past garment styles and sartorial luxuries.

Boytown Paris - Fashion Week - Fall 2012-Winter 2013 - UK-OK

Phillip Lim – Fall 2012-Winter 2013

Boytown Paris - Fashion Week - Fall 2012-Winter 2013 - UK-OK

Raf Simons – Fall 2012-Winter 2013

And there were a few [not so] indirect references to the UK. It’s not a secret that the French love English menswear, it’s amazingly well thought-out, so classic and well made; it’s impossible not to like it. But, what is different this time is that the references are more cultural.

Boytown Paris - Fashion Week - Fall 2012-Winter 2013 - UK-OK

Givenchy – Fall 2012-Winter 2013

Boytown Paris - Fashion Week - Fall 2012-Winter 2013 - UK-OK

Issey Miyake – Fall 2012-Winter 2013

No one can think about vernacular UK men’s style without thinking about the posh boy’s school uniforms and team sports like cricket and rugby. These tailored stripped uniforms, long-sleeve shirts and small caps are iconic.

Boytown Paris - Fashion Week - Fall 2012-Winter 2013 - UK-OK

Etonians in 1939 wearing traditional tails and striped trousers study in the school’s library, which is a memorial to alumni who died in the Boer War. By Margaret Bourke-White:Getty Images

Boytown Paris - Fashion Week - Fall 2012-Winter 2013 - UK-OK

Eton College students at the annual 'Wall Game,' akin to a perpetual rugby scrum; the first recorded game was played in 1766. By Patrick Ward:Corbis

Boytown Paris - Fashion Week - Fall 2012-Winter 2013 - UK-OK

Lanvin – Fall 2012-Winter 2013

Boytown Paris - Fashion Week - Fall 2012-Winter 2013 - UK-OK

Famous rowing coach and writer, Rudie Lehmann is wearing his Leander cap in this drawing by SPY

Boytown Paris - Fashion Week - Fall 2012-Winter 2013 - UK-OK

Dior Homme – Fall 2012-Winter 2013

Boytown Paris - Fashion Week - Fall 2012-Winter 2013 - UK-OK

The 1st XV Rugby team at St. Peter's School, York, 1933-34

Boytown Paris - Fashion Week - Fall 2012-Winter 2013 - UK-OK

Phillip Lim – Fall 2012-Winter 2013

Is there another Scottomania brewing in the fashion world? It seems so. A little plaid goes a long way, as does feileadh-mhór style references and classic kilts.

Boytown Paris - Fashion Week - Fall 2012-Winter 2013 - UK-OK

Tartan Cloth, MacNaughtons Emporium, Pitlochry, Scotland, United Kingdom

Boytown Paris - Fashion Week - Fall 2012-Winter 2013 - UK-OK

Viktor & Rolf Monsieur – Fall 2012-Winter 2013

Boytown Paris - Fashion Week - Fall 2012-Winter 2013 - UK-OK

Harlequin Portrait of Prince Charles Edward Stewart (1720-1788)

Boytown Paris - Fashion Week - Fall 2012-Winter 2013 - UK-OK

Issey Miyake – Fall 2012-Winter 2013

Boytown Paris - Fashion Week - Fall 2012-Winter 2013 - UK-OK

Feileadh Mhor, from the gaelic for Greater Kilt, known also as the Highland Plaid is a garment known to at least date back to the 17th century

Boytown Paris - Fashion Week - Fall 2012-Winter 2013 - UK-OK

Louis Vuitton – Fall 2012-Winter 2013

Then comes the Scotland Yard twist, the Inverness cape-coat. Any Sherlock Holmes reboot could get some inspiration from the shows. The Inverness cape-coat and a variety of alternatives graced the catwalks with surprising modernity.

Boytown Paris - Fashion Week - Fall 2012-Winter 2013 - UK-OK

The Inverness coat is a type of formal overcoat, with long open sleeves, in day or night variations

Boytown Paris - Fashion Week - Fall 2012-Winter 2013 - UK-OK

Mugler – Fall 2012-Winter 2013

Boytown Paris - Fashion Week - Fall 2012-Winter 2013 - UK-OK

Dior Homme – Fall 2012-Winter 2013

Boytown Paris - Fashion Week - Fall 2012-Winter 2013 - UK-OK

Issey Miyake – Fall 2012-Winter 2013

Moving back to France for another interesting historical nod that seems to be starting a movement of sorts. More than a few designers are referencing Pierre Cardin. Yes, Cardin, the great couturier and modernist creator, is an unsung hero of 20th century fashion and may simply be getting his well-deserved dues. His amazing cuts and experimental modernity is not a bad thing to channel and reference.

Boytown Paris - Fashion Week - Fall 2012-Winter 2013 - UK-OK
Mugler – Fall 2012-Winter 2013
Boytown Paris - Fashion Week - Fall 2012-Winter 2013 - UK-OK

Pierre Cardin's revolutionary appraoch to menswear

Boytown Paris - Fashion Week - Fall 2012-Winter 2013 - UK-OK

Pierre Cardin's Space collection 1967-68

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