As a rule, menswear is evolutionary and not revolutionary; that super-directional ability goes to womenswear… and on a fairly continuous loop, I might add. When it comes to menswear, we don’t expect a complete sartorial shuffle each season, only a few garment additions.
Academic Male Nude by Wilhelm von Gloeden
With the latest cycle of shows, Paris brought out a few experimental notes, loads of surface treatments, more colors than usual, a little more leather and gender-bender notes –in this case it’s really more about men re-attributing past garment styles and sartorial luxuries.
Phillip Lim – Fall 2012-Winter 2013
Raf Simons – Fall 2012-Winter 2013
And there were a few [not so] indirect references to the UK. It’s not a secret that the French love English menswear, it’s amazingly well thought-out, so classic and well made; it’s impossible not to like it. But, what is different this time is that the references are more cultural.
Givenchy – Fall 2012-Winter 2013
Issey Miyake – Fall 2012-Winter 2013
No one can think about vernacular UK men’s style without thinking about the posh boy’s school uniforms and team sports like cricket and rugby. These tailored stripped uniforms, long-sleeve shirts and small caps are iconic.
Etonians in 1939 wearing traditional tails and striped trousers study in the school’s library, which is a memorial to alumni who died in the Boer War. By Margaret Bourke-White:Getty Images
Eton College students at the annual 'Wall Game,' akin to a perpetual rugby scrum; the first recorded game was played in 1766. By Patrick Ward:Corbis
Lanvin – Fall 2012-Winter 2013
Famous rowing coach and writer, Rudie Lehmann is wearing his Leander cap in this drawing by SPY
Dior Homme – Fall 2012-Winter 2013
The 1st XV Rugby team at St. Peter's School, York, 1933-34
Phillip Lim – Fall 2012-Winter 2013
Is there another Scottomania brewing in the fashion world? It seems so. A little plaid goes a long way, as does feileadh-mhór style references and classic kilts.
Tartan Cloth, MacNaughtons Emporium, Pitlochry, Scotland, United Kingdom
Viktor & Rolf Monsieur – Fall 2012-Winter 2013
Harlequin Portrait of Prince Charles Edward Stewart (1720-1788)
Issey Miyake – Fall 2012-Winter 2013
Feileadh Mhor, from the gaelic for Greater Kilt, known also as the Highland Plaid is a garment known to at least date back to the 17th century
Louis Vuitton – Fall 2012-Winter 2013
Then comes the Scotland Yard twist, the Inverness cape-coat. Any Sherlock Holmes reboot could get some inspiration from the shows. The Inverness cape-coat and a variety of alternatives graced the catwalks with surprising modernity.
The Inverness coat is a type of formal overcoat, with long open sleeves, in day or night variations
Mugler – Fall 2012-Winter 2013
Dior Homme – Fall 2012-Winter 2013
Issey Miyake – Fall 2012-Winter 2013
Moving back to France for another interesting historical nod that seems to be starting a movement of sorts. More than a few designers are referencing Pierre Cardin. Yes, Cardin, the great couturier and modernist creator, is an unsung hero of 20th century fashion and may simply be getting his well-deserved dues. His amazing cuts and experimental modernity is not a bad thing to channel and reference.
- Mugler – Fall 2012-Winter 2013
Pierre Cardin's revolutionary appraoch to menswear
Pierre Cardin's Space collection 1967-68
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