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Boytown Paris Fall 2012-Winter 2013 | UK-OK

As a rule, menswear is evolutionary and not revolutionary; that super-directional ability goes to womenswear… and on a fairly continuous loop, I might add. When it comes to menswear, we don’t expect a complete sartorial shuffle each season, only a few garment additions.

Boytown Paris - Fashion Week - Fall 2012-Winter 2013 - UK-OK

Academic Male Nude by Wilhelm von Gloeden

With the latest cycle of shows, Paris brought out a few experimental notes, loads of surface treatments, more colors than usual, a little more leather and gender-bender notes –in this case it’s really more about men re-attributing past garment styles and sartorial luxuries.

Boytown Paris - Fashion Week - Fall 2012-Winter 2013 - UK-OK Boytown Paris - Fashion Week - Fall 2012-Winter 2013 - UK-OK

And there were a few [not so] indirect references to the UK. It’s not a secret that the French love English menswear, it’s amazingly well thought-out, so classic and well made; it’s impossible not to like it. But, what is different this time is that the references are more cultural.

Boytown Paris - Fashion Week - Fall 2012-Winter 2013 - UK-OK Boytown Paris - Fashion Week - Fall 2012-Winter 2013 - UK-OK

No one can think about vernacular UK men’s style without thinking about the posh boy’s school uniforms and team sports like cricket and rugby. These tailored stripped uniforms, long-sleeve shirts and small caps are iconic.

Boytown Paris - Fashion Week - Fall 2012-Winter 2013 - UK-OK
Boytown Paris - Fashion Week - Fall 2012-Winter 2013 - UK-OK

Eton College students at the annual 'Wall Game,' akin to a perpetual rugby scrum; the first recorded game was played in 1766. By Patrick Ward:Corbis

Boytown Paris - Fashion Week - Fall 2012-Winter 2013 - UK-OK
Boytown Paris - Fashion Week - Fall 2012-Winter 2013 - UK-OK

Famous rowing coach and writer, Rudie Lehmann is wearing his Leander cap in this drawing by SPY

Boytown Paris - Fashion Week - Fall 2012-Winter 2013 - UK-OK
Boytown Paris - Fashion Week - Fall 2012-Winter 2013 - UK-OK

The 1st XV Rugby team at St. Peter's School, York, 1933-34

Boytown Paris - Fashion Week - Fall 2012-Winter 2013 - UK-OK

Is there another Scottomania brewing in the fashion world? It seems so. A little plaid goes a long way, as does feileadh-mhór style references and classic kilts.

Boytown Paris - Fashion Week - Fall 2012-Winter 2013 - UK-OK

Tartan Cloth, MacNaughtons Emporium, Pitlochry, Scotland, United Kingdom

Boytown Paris - Fashion Week - Fall 2012-Winter 2013 - UK-OK
Boytown Paris - Fashion Week - Fall 2012-Winter 2013 - UK-OK

Harlequin Portrait of Prince Charles Edward Stewart (1720-1788)

Boytown Paris - Fashion Week - Fall 2012-Winter 2013 - UK-OK
Boytown Paris - Fashion Week - Fall 2012-Winter 2013 - UK-OK

Feileadh Mhor, from the gaelic for Greater Kilt, known also as the Highland Plaid is a garment known to at least date back to the 17th century

Boytown Paris - Fashion Week - Fall 2012-Winter 2013 - UK-OK

Then comes the Scotland Yard twist, the Inverness cape-coat. Any Sherlock Holmes reboot could get some inspiration from the shows. The Inverness cape-coat and a variety of alternatives graced the catwalks with surprising modernity.

Boytown Paris - Fashion Week - Fall 2012-Winter 2013 - UK-OK

The Inverness coat is a type of formal overcoat, with long open sleeves, in day or night variations

Boytown Paris - Fashion Week - Fall 2012-Winter 2013 - UK-OK Boytown Paris - Fashion Week - Fall 2012-Winter 2013 - UK-OK Boytown Paris - Fashion Week - Fall 2012-Winter 2013 - UK-OK

Moving back to France for another interesting historical nod that seems to be starting a movement of sorts. More than a few designers are referencing Pierre Cardin. Yes, Cardin, the great couturier and modernist creator, is an unsung hero of 20th century fashion and may simply be getting his well-deserved dues. His amazing cuts and experimental modernity is not a bad thing to channel and reference.

Boytown Paris - Fashion Week - Fall 2012-Winter 2013 - UK-OK
Mugler – Fall 2012-Winter 2013
Boytown Paris - Fashion Week - Fall 2012-Winter 2013 - UK-OK

Pierre Cardin's revolutionary appraoch to menswear

Boytown Paris - Fashion Week - Fall 2012-Winter 2013 - UK-OK

Pierre Cardin's Space collection 1967-68

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