The Italian menswear fashion collections came and went during Milan Fashion Week, showing beautifully tailored suits and jackets that demonstrated how a little sartorial effort can make an entire world of difference. Its all about men looking like men again, but that doesn’t mean dressing old.
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Ermenegildo Zegna - Fall 2012-Winter 2013
Prada - Fall 2012-Winter 2013
We’ve seen this retro-Edwardian twist in action, or is this new trend more aptly called retro-Neo-Edwardian? Regardless, the look is amazing, chic, and very much needed. But the collections were also chock-full of stripes and color blocking as seen in Navajo-Ikat applications, Pendleton blanket styles or color applications à la the 1960s Madison Avenue advertising look.
Dolce e Gabbana - Fall 2012-Winter 2013
The neo-Edwardian esthetic evolved well into the early 1970s, intersecting with the neo-Regency remixes of the Peacock Revolution, before the energetic, neo-1930s exaggerations of the 1970s claimed a sturdier hold on the tailoring world (one school of thought suggests that the 1960s did not truly end until 1972)
Roberto Cavalli - Fall 2012-Winter 2013
Etro - Fall 2012-Winter 2013
Hamish Bowles, photographed at his New York abode for Fantastic Man, wears one of Roger's WF&H checked suits, one of a number he acquired at the posthumous Sotheby's auction of Roger and his brother Sandy's effects.
Etro - Fall 2012-Winter 2013
Another trend that appeared throughout the Milanese collections was a bit of denim peeking through in surprising fabrications. Denim, this time, acted as another cloth, like a good suiting wool. The looks were surprisingly tamed and may simply become a mainstay. Who wouldn’t want a tailored-jacket double-rinsed in indigo? Sign me up!
Ermenegildo Zegna - Fall 2012-Winter 2013
Ermenegildo Zegna - Fall 2012-Winter 2013
Velvet, the cloth of princes, is the fabric of choice for the season. It’s not like velvet in menswear is that rare, but this Italian season it is everywhere! Nothing looks more elegant than a velvet jacket in jewel tones. A midnight-blue suit or jacket might well be next season’s must-have, and one that will get you good sartorial mileage… Don’t hate me because I’m chic!
Portrait of unidentified man, ca. 1855
Roberto Cavalli - Fall 2012-Winter 2013
Dolce e Gabbana - Fall 2012-Winter 2013
Emporio Armani - Fall 2012-Winter 2013
Dolce e Gabbana - Fall 2012-Winter 2013
Diana, Princess of Wales wearing a long dinner dress and tailcoat of burgundy velvet by Catherine Walker Inspired by men's dress of the early 19th Century
As politely tailored and well put together as the collections were as a whole, fun sportswear details came into the mix through interesting styling and layering, as especially demonstrated with leather jackets and shearlings. A good leather piece can easily migrate and adapt into the most classic wardrobe as easily as a sportier one. Plus, nothing says, “I’m a guy” like a handsome leather coat or jacket.
Jil Sander - Fall 2012-Winter 2013
Emporio Armani - Fall 2012-Winter 2013
Gucci - Fall 2012-Winter 2013
Gucci - Fall 2012-Winter 2013
Shearling is the man’s man fur of choice, of course; it is easy to introduce to a preexisting wardrobe and adaptable enough to work with business attire –its versatility is key. Of course, more than a few designers used it either as trims, lining or full reversible pieces. Other creative minds even decided to add other fur types to the collar and lapel, yet kept the “brawn” factor intact.
Versace - Fall 2012-Winter 2013
Bottega Veneta - Fall 2012-Winter 2013
Versace - Fall 2012-Winter 2013
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