Bibhu Mohapatra is fast becoming one of the most sought-after invitations during Fashion Week for any fashionista worth their salt. He is a creative powerhouse–one, of course, that surprises as much as he excites.

Describing the Mohapatra aesthetic is as much about noting techniques and material juxtapositions as it is about appreciating the out-of-the-ordinary and the luxurious. Let’s not forget that for years he was the man behind the man at J. Mendel. He sharpened his skills and scissors there on some of the best fabrics and furs in the world.

Now, it is Bibhu Mohapatra’s time to shine alone. And this commercially viable collection is showing how much he has grown as a label. The ornamental treatments he adds to his creations make his trademark; and this time he didn’t disappoint with over-sized embroideries deftly paralleling high-gloss prints. It was an innovative “next-generation” technique replacing the metal detail of last fall’s collection.

But, as expected, it was his furs that drew the most enthusiastic response. He is a masterful designer when it comes to handling fur, as well as leathers. This season he favored luscious hues to complement equally intense volume. His work is definitely not for the demure; yet, there is something hauntingly approachable about them… even the more over-the-top looks.

His chevron application might become a recurring design theme–we truly hope it does as it looks incredibly chic, especially with fox. The cocoon jackets might look more editorial, but once simplified they could be a must-have for the fashionable set this winter.

Bibhu Mohapatra has firmly established himself as one of the greats of the new fashion generation. We are huge fans!